vendredi 13 juin 2014

What Authentic Neapolitan Pizza Should Look Like

By Sally Delacruz


From paved roads and indoor plumbing to the violin, Italy has been at the forefront of inventing things that have helped civilization. There is one invention, however, that may be more important than all the others combined, at least if you believe serious food lovers. That is the authentic Neapolitan pizza, which has been responsible for the happiness of people everywhere from Melbourne, VIC to Toronto, ON.

Few people can truly say that they don't love pizza. After all, that combination of gooey cheese and crispy crust makes for comfort food like nothing else. Some people want as many toppings as they can fit onto the base and may also prefer the base to be thick and soft. Others like to keep things traditional with only the very basic toppings and a thin crust.

The concept of a bread-like crust topped with cheese and herbs is not a new one. The ancient Greeks had a version, as did the Romans, who also added honey. The pie that most people know today came much later, though, after tomatoes made it from the New World to Europe. It originated in Naples during the late 19th century and was originally a type of food for the working class.

With so many variations to the original nowadays, the Italians have started an organization to separate the real thing from the impostors. It's called the True Neapolitan Pizza Association and uses the Italian abbreviation AVPN, while the American branch is known as the VPN. If a pizzeria wants to call their pies authentically Neapolitan, they need to adhere to a very strict set of guidelines.

For instance, there are regulations about exactly what type of flour may be used to make the crust. Even the yeast has to be of a specific kind and using dry yeast is not allowed. Mixing and kneading by hand is obviously preferable but it's perfectly fine to use a dough mixer at low speed.

Creating the base is truly an art form and you may not use a rolling pin. The challenge is to make a base that's thinner than 3 mm and do this completely by hand. Once the toppings have been added, the crust is cooked to perfection in a stone oven that is very hot. The oven must be wood-fired and even the kind of wood used has to adhere to AVPN regulations. The pie cannot spend more than 90 seconds in the oven.

For the toppings, things need to be kept simple, with tomatoes and fresh basil, buffalo mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil. This is of course the classic Margherita pizza and if you really want it to be the real thing, be sure to use cheese that comes from Campania and that the tomatoes are of an approved variety. Another version consists of tomatoes with garlic, oregano and the compulsory bit of olive oil. This is known as the marinara.

To prevent the crust from becoming soggy, the end product is served whole, rather than cut into slices. You then need to use a knife and fork to cut and eat it. If you want to eat your pie on the street, the pizzeria may place it onto heavy paper and then fold it twice. Just make sure that the pizzeria is a member of either the AVPN or the VPN.




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